The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competitions and venues vary from year to year. The first World Cup was held in 1989, and included only lead climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998 and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of UIAA and called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they are held under the auspices of IFSC.[1]
IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
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Seasons | |
Disciplines | |
Scoring system
Individual disciplines
At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. The top 30 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points.
Ranking | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 |
Points | 100 | 80 | 65 | 55 | 51 | 47 | 43 | 40 | 37 | 34 | 31 | 28 | 26 | 24 | 22 |
Ranking | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 |
Points | 20 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 12 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.[2]
National team ranking
At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.
Combined ranking
Discipline | Overall score | Overall ranking |
---|---|---|
Lead | 665 | 1 |
Bouldering | 470 | 2 |
Speed | 0 | — |
Combined | 1135 | 1 |
For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.[3] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.
From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.
Discipline | Selected event | Rankings | |
---|---|---|---|
General | Relative | ||
Lead | Villars | 1 | 1 |
Arco | 1 | 1 | |
Bouldering | Meringen | 4 | 3 |
Munich | 3 | 2 | |
Speed | Wujiang | 27 | 2 |
Xiamen | 26 | 4 | |
Product of relative rankings | 48 |
Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.[4] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.
In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.[5] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.
Men's results
Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]
Lead
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1989 | Simon Nadin | Didier Raboutou | Jerry Moffatt |
1990 | François Legrand | Jacky Godoffe | Jim Karn |
1991 | François Legrand | François Lombard | Yuji Hirayama |
1992 | François Legrand | Luca Zardini | Jean-Baptiste Tribout |
1993 | François Legrand | François Petit | Yuji Hirayama |
1994 | François Lombard | François Legrand | Jean-Baptiste Tribout |
1995 | François Petit | François Legrand | Arnaud Petit |
1996 | Arnaud Petit | François Petit | Cristian Brenna |
1997 | François Legrand | Arnaud Petit | François Petit |
1998 | Yuji Hirayama | Cristian Brenna | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev |
1999 | François Petit | François Legrand | Andreas Bindhammer |
2000 | Yuji Hirayama | Alexandre Chabot | Cristian Brenna |
2001 | Alexandre Chabot | Gérome Pouvreau | Tomáš Mrázek |
2002 | Alexandre Chabot | Tomáš Mrázek | Gérome Pouvreau |
2003 | Alexandre Chabot | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | François Auclair |
2004 | Tomáš Mrázek | Alexandre Chabot | Flavio Crespi |
2005 | Flavio Crespi | Jorg Verhoeven | Cédric Lachat |
2006 | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | David Lama | Flavio Crespi Tomáš Mrázek |
2007 | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Tomáš Mrázek |
2008 | Jorg Verhoeven | Tomáš Mrázek | Ramón Julián Puigblanque |
2009 | Adam Ondra | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | Sachi Amma |
2010 | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Jakob Schubert | Adam Ondra |
2011 | Jakob Schubert | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Sachi Amma |
2012 | Sachi Amma | Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Jakob Schubert |
2013 | Sachi Amma | Jakob Schubert | Ramón Julián Puigblanque |
2014 | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl | Adam Ondra |
2015 | Adam Ondra | Gautier Supper | Jakob Schubert |
2016 | Domen Škofic | Jakob Schubert | Romain Desgranges |
2017 | Romain Desgranges | Stefano Ghisolfi | Keiichiro Korenaga |
2018 | Jakob Schubert | Stefano Ghisolfi | Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic |
2019 | Adam Ondra | Alberto Gines Lopez | Sean McColl |
Bouldering
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1999 | Christian Core | Serik Kazbekov | Jérôme Meyer |
2000 | Pedro Pons | Salavat Rakhmetov | Daniel Dulac |
2001 | Jérôme Meyer | Mauro Calibani | Daniel Andrada Jimenez |
2002 | Christian Core Jérôme Meyer Malcolm Smith | — | — |
2003 | Jérôme Meyer | Salavat Rakhmetov | Daniel Dulac |
2004 | Daniel Dulac | Kilian Fischhuber | Jérôme Meyer |
2005 | Kilian Fischhuber | Jérôme Meyer | Daniel Dulac |
2006 | Jérôme Meyer | Kilian Fischhuber | Gérome Pouvreau |
2007 | Kilian Fischhuber | Dmitri Sarafutdinov | Stephane Julien |
2008 | Kilian Fischhuber | David Lama | Dmitri Sarafutdinov |
2009 | Kilian Fischhuber | Rustam Gelmanov | Gabriele Moroni |
2010 | Adam Ondra | Kilian Fischhuber | Tsukuru Hori |
2011 | Kilian Fischhuber | Dmitri Sarafutdinov | Guillaume Glairon Mondet |
2012 | Rustam Gelmanov | Kilian Fischhuber | Jakob Schubert |
2013 | Dmitri Sarafutdinov | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl |
2014 | Jan Hojer | Dmitri Sarafutdinov | Guillaume Glairon Mondet |
2015 | Jongwon Chon | Jan Hojer | Adam Ondra |
2016 | Tomoa Narasaki | Kokoro Fujii | Alexey Rubtsov |
2017 | Jongwon Chon | Tomoa Narasaki | Alexey Rubtsov |
2018 | Jernej Kruder | Tomoa Narasaki | Rei Sugimoto |
2019 | Tomoa Narasaki | Adam Ondra | Yoshiyuki Ogata |
Speed
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1998[3] | Andrey Vedenmeer | Vladimir Netsvetaev | Alexey Kozlov |
1999 | Tomasz Oleksy | Vladislav Baranov | Vladimir Zakharov |
2000 | Andrey Vedenmeer | Iakov Soubbotine | Vladimir Zakharov |
2001 | Maksym Styenkovyy | Alexander Chaoulsky | Alexander Peshekhonov |
2002 | Alexander Peshekhonov | Maksym Styenkovyy | Sergey Sinitsyn |
2003 | Tomasz Oleksy | Alexander Peshekhonov | Iakov Soubbotine |
2004 | Sergey Sinitsyn | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Alexander Peshekhonov |
2005 | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Sergey Sinitsyn | Tomasz Oleksy |
2006 | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Sergey Sinitsyn | Alexander Peshekhonov |
2007 | Sergey Sinitsyn | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Alexander Kosterin |
2008 | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Sergey Sinitsyn | Qixin Zhong |
2009 | Sergey Sinitsyn | Sergey Abdrakhmanov | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky |
2010 | Stanislav Kokorin | Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky | Libor Hroza |
2011 | Łukasz Świrk | Sergey Sinitsyn | Sergey Abdrakhmanov |
2012 | Stanislav Kokorin | Danyil Boldyrev | Yaroslav Gontaryk |
2013 | Stanislav Kokorin | Libor Hroza | Qixin Zhong |
2014 | Danyil Boldyrev | Libor Hroza | Marcin Dzieński |
2015 | Qixin Zhong | Libor Hroza | Danyil Boldyrev |
2016 | Marcin Dzieński | Reza Alipour | Aleksander Shikov |
2017 | Vladislav Deulin | Reza Alipour | Ludovico Fossali |
2018 | Bassa Mawem | Danyil Boldyrev | Dmitry Timofeev |
2019 | Bassa Mawem | Vladislav Deulin | Alfian Muhammad |
Combined
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1998[3][7] | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev | Tomasz Oleksy | — |
1999 | François Petit | Daniel Andrada Jimenez | Tomasz Oleksy |
2000 | Alexandre Chabot | Salavat Rakhmetov | Serik Kazbekov |
2001 | Alexandre Chabot | Serik Kazbekov | Kilian Fischhuber |
2002 | Maksym Styenkovyy | Serik Kazbekov | Kilian Fischhuber |
2003 | Tomasz Oleksy | Evgeny Ovchinnikov | Serik Kazbekov Cédric Lachat |
2004 | Kilian Fischhuber | Flavio Crespi | Gérome Pouvreau |
2005 | Tomasz Oleksy | Kilian Fischhuber | Dmitri Sarafutdinov |
2006 | Tomáš Mrázek | David Lama | Kilian Fischhuber |
2007 | Jorg Verhoeven | Tomáš Mrázek | Kilian Fischhuber |
2008 | David Lama | Jorg Verhoeven | Tomáš Mrázek |
2009 | Adam Ondra | Sachi Amma | Klemen Becan |
2010 | Adam Ondra | Jakob Schubert | Sachi Amma |
2011 | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl | Klemen Becan |
2012 | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl | Sachi Amma |
2013 | Jakob Schubert | Sean McColl | Sachi Amma |
2014 | Sean McColl | Adam Ondra | Domen Škofic |
2015 | Adam Ondra | Sean McColl | Domen Škofic |
2016 | Sean McColl | Jakob Schubert | Kokoro Fujii |
2017 | Tomoa Narasaki | Jongwon Chon | Kokoro Fujii |
2018 | Jakob Schubert | Tomoa Narasaki | Kokoro Fujii |
2019 | Tomoa Narasaki | Adam Ondra | Jakob Schubert |
Women's results
Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]
Lead
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1989 | Nanette Raybaud | Luisa Iovane | Robyn Erbesfield |
1990 | Isabelle Patissier Lynn Hill | — | Nanette Raybaud |
1991 | Isabelle Patissier | Susi Good | Robyn Erbesfield |
1992 | Robyn Erbesfield | Isabelle Patissier | Lynn Hill |
1993 | Robyn Erbesfield | Susi Good | Elena Ovtchinnikova |
1994 | Robyn Erbesfield | Isabelle Patissier | Natalie Richer |
1995 | Robyn Erbesfield | Laurence Guyon | Liv Sansoz |
1996 | Liv Sansoz | Laurence Guyon | Stéphanie Bodet |
1997 | Muriel Sarkany | Liv Sansoz | Stéphanie Bodet |
1998 | Liv Sansoz | Muriel Sarkany | Stéphanie Bodet |
1999 | Muriel Sarkany | Liv Sansoz | Martina Čufar |
2000 | Liv Sansoz | Muriel Sarkany | Stéphanie Bodet |
2001 | Muriel Sarkany | Martina Čufar | Sandrine Levet |
2002 | Muriel Sarkany | Sandrine Levet | Martina Čufar |
2003 | Muriel Sarkany | Sandrine Levet | Angela Eiter |
2004 | Angela Eiter | Muriel Sarkany | Alexandra Eyer Natalija Gros |
2005 | Angela Eiter | Maja Vidmar | Caroline Ciavaldini |
2006 | Angela Eiter | Sandrine Levet | Caroline Ciavaldini |
2007 | Maja Vidmar | Angela Eiter | Muriel Sarkany |
2008 | Johanna Ernst | Maja Vidmar | Mina Markovič |
2009 | Johanna Ernst | Jain Kim | Maja Vidmar |
2010 | Jain Kim | Mina Markovič | Angela Eiter |
2011 | Mina Markovič | Jain Kim | Maja Vidmar |
2012 | Mina Markovic | Jain Kim | Johanna Ernst |
2013 | Jain Kim | Mina Markovič | Momoka Oda |
2014 | Jain Kim | Mina Markovič | Magdalena Röck |
2015 | Mina Markovič | Jain Kim | Jessica Pilz |
2016 | Janja Garnbret | Anak Verhoeven | Jain Kim |
2017 | Janja Garnbret | Jain Kim | Anak Verhoeven |
2018 | Janja Garnbret | Jessica Pilz | Jain Kim |
2019 | Chaehyun Seo | Janja Garnbret | Natsuki Tanii |
Bouldering
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1999 | Stéphanie Bodet | Elena Choumilova | Sandrine Levet |
2000 | Sandrine Levet | Elena Choumilova | Delphine Martin |
2001 | Sandrine Levet | Myriam Motteau | Corinne Theroux |
2002 | Myriam Motteau Nataliya Perlova Lisa Rands | — | — |
2003 | Sandrine Levet | Olga Bibik | Nataliya Perlova |
2004 | Sandrine Levet | Olga Bibik | Yulia Abramchuk |
2005 | Sandrine Levet | Olga Bibik | Yulia Abramchuk |
2006 | Olga Bibik | Juliette Danion | Anna Stöhr |
2007 | Juliette Danion | Olga Shalagina | Natalija Gros |
2008 | Anna Stöhr | Akiyo Noguchi | Yulia Abramchuk |
2009 | Akiyo Noguchi | Anna Stöhr | Natalija Gros |
2010 | Akiyo Noguchi | Anna Stöhr | Chloé Graftiaux |
2011 | Anna Stöhr | Akiyo Noguchi | Alex Puccio |
2012 | Anna Stöhr | Akiyo Noguchi | Shauna Coxsey |
2013 | Anna Stöhr | Akiyo Noguchi | Alex Puccio |
2014 | Akiyo Noguchi | Shauna Coxsey | Anna Stöhr |
2015 | Akiyo Noguchi | Shauna Coxsey | Miho Nonaka |
2016 | Shauna Coxsey | Miho Nonaka | Melissa Le Neve |
2017 | Shauna Coxsey | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi |
2018 | Miho Nonaka | Akiyo Noguchi | Fanny Gibert |
2019 | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi | Fanny Gibert |
Speed
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1998[3] | Olga Zakharova | Alena Ostapenko | Nataliya Perlova |
1999 | Olga Zakharova | Alena Ostapenko | Zosia Podgorbounskikh |
2000 | Olena Ryepko | Olga Zakharova | Zosia Podgorbounskikh |
2001 | Olga Zakharova | Agung Ethi Hendrawati | Zosia Podgorbounskikh |
2002 | Olena Ryepko | Maya Piratinskaya | Valentina Yurina |
2003 | Valentina Yurina | Anna Stenkovaya | Olena Ryepko |
2004 | Tatiana Ruyga | Anna Stenkovaya | Agung Ethi Hendrawati |
2005 | Anna Stenkovaya | Valentina Yurina | Olga Evstigneeva |
2006 | Tatiana Ruyga | Valentina Yurina | Anna Stenkovaya |
2007 | Tatiana Ruyga | Svitlana Tuzhylina | Anna Stenkovaya |
2008 | Edyta Ropek | Olena Ryepko | Svitlana Tuzhylina |
2009 | Edyta Ropek | Anna Stenkovaya | Valentina Yurina |
2010 | Yulia Levochkina | Ksenia Alekseeva | Edyta Ropek |
2011 | Edyta Ropek | Maria Krasavina | Alina Gaydamakina |
2012 | Alina Gaydamakina | Yulia Levochkina | Maria Krasavina |
2013 | Alina Gaydamakina | Yulia Kaplina | Aleksandra Rudzinska |
2014 | Maria Krasavina | Yulia Kaplina | Anouck Jaubert |
2015 | Maria Krasavina | Anouck Jaubert | Yulia Kaplina |
2016 | Yulia Kaplina | Anouck Jaubert | Klaudia Buczek |
2017 | Anouck Jaubert | Yulia Kaplina | Maria Krasavina |
2018 | Anouck Jaubert | Aries Susanti Rahayu | Yulia Kaplina |
2019 | YiLing Song | Anouck Jaubert | Aries Susanti Rahayu |
Combined
Year | Winner | Second | Third |
---|---|---|---|
1998[3][8] | Nataliya Perlova | Renata Piszczek | Olena Ostapenko |
1999 | Elena Choumilova | Stéphanie Bodet | Isabelle Bihr |
2000 | Liv Sansoz | Sandrine Levet | Elena Choumilova |
2001 | Sandrine Levet | Martina Čufar | Elena Choumilova Annatina Schultz |
2002 | Sandrine Levet | Olga Zakharova | Jenny Lavarda |
2003 | Sandrine Levet | Olga Bibik | Barbara Bacher |
2004 | Sandrine Levet | Jenny Lavarda | Alexandra Eyer |
2005 | Sandrine Levet | Anna Stenkovaya | Jenny Lavarda |
2006 | Angela Eiter | Natalija Gros | Maja Vidmar |
2007 | Natalija Gros | Angela Eiter | Svitlana Tuzhylina |
2008 | Akiyo Noguchi | Johanna Ernst | Natalija Gros |
2009 | Akiyo Noguchi | Jain Kim | Johanna Ernst |
2010 | Jain Kim | Akiyo Noguchi | Natalija Gros |
2011 | Mina Markovič | Jain Kim | Akiyo Noguchi |
2012 | Mina Markovič | Jain Kim | Akiyo Noguchi |
2013 | Mina Markovič | Akiyo Noguchi | Momoka Oda |
2014 | Akiyo Noguchi | Mina Markovič | Momoka Oda |
2015 | Jain Kim | Akiyo Noguchi | Yuka Kobayashi |
2016 | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi | Jessica Pilz |
2017 | Janja Garnbret | Jain Kim | Shauna Coxsey |
2018 | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi | Miho Nonaka |
2019 | Janja Garnbret | Akiyo Noguchi | Jessica Pilz |
See also
- International Federation of Sport Climbing
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- IFSC Climbing European Championships
- IFSC Climbing Asian Championships
- List of best IFSC results
References
- ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 19 May 2013.
- ^ "Event Regulations".
- ^ a b c d e Before 1998, the World Cup consisted only of lead climbing competitions. In 1998, for the first time a speed event was introduced, which was held in Beauregard (Italy). A combined title was also awarded. However, only 3 women and 2 men competed in both disciplines and hence met the requirements to be ranked for the combined title.
- ^ "IFSC Rules modifications 2018" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Rules modifications 2019" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
- ^ a b "World Cup rankings and World rankings". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
- ^ "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: MEN COMBINED".
- ^ "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: WOMEN COMBINED".
External links
- "World Cup rankings and World rankings for all seasons (since 1991)". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
- "Calendar of IFSC competitions". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
- "IFSC Rules". www.ifsc-climbing.org.